Sewing Sunsets

I think I’m having sewing withdrawals! We’re in the process of renovating the master bath in our house before we put the house on the market.  While I do enjoy decorating and picking out new paint colors and bathroom fixtures, I would really rather be sewing.  I’m glad I can talk about it here, even if I am talking about older sewing projects.  However, in the very near future I will be making an apron for my daughter’s roommate, so I’ll have a new project to show you.  That apron will be sewn in spite of real life’s other plans for me.

In the meantime, let’s continue talking about sewing set in sleeves.  The side seams of the bodice have already been sewn and then sleeve caps have been eased before sewing the sleeve seam.  I like to serge finish the raw edge of the sleeve (in the hem area) because I prefer to sew the hem by  hand using the blind hem stitch.  However, beginners might like to turn up the raw edge about 1/4 inch and sew around it and press.  That way, when the hem is turned up, the slip stitch can be used.  It doesn’t look quite as professional (in my opinion) as the blind hem stitch, but it might be easier for beginners.

Once the sleeve is completed, I had to sew it into the armscye of the bodice.  This is where it can get tricky, but it’s not really hard.  The sleeve and bodice are placed right sides together.  I match the sleeve seam with the side seam on the bodice, and then start pinning around the sleeve.  You can either slightly pull the easing stitches at this point, or you can pull those stitches prior to pinning the sleeve into the armscye and then adjust it to fit as you are pinning.

I like to sew the sleeves in, using the free arm of the sewing machine.  When I sew sleeves, I start sewing at the underarm seam, sew around, and then slightly overlap where I started sewing to secure the stitching.

(Also, remember that a single notch on the sleeve cap indicates the front of the sleeve and a double notch indicates the back of the sleeve.)  These set in sleeves were not gathered, but only slightly eased to fit the armscye.  When they are sewn into the garment, the sleeve cap should be smooth.  I like to serge finish these seams, but if you are a beginner, you could also slightly trim them with pinking shears.  Another option would be to use Seams Great.  I haven’t used this product myself (yet) but I hope to be able to get some and see how I like it–when I have time to sew again, of course.

Much more detailed instructions (and pictures) of sewing set in sleeves can be found at: www.sewseamless.com/Page8.html and www.sewseamless.com/Page17.html

Hand hem stitches; blind hem stitch and slip stitch: www.sewseamless.com/Page20.html

Happy Sewing!

www.sewseamless.com