Sewing Sunsets

When I first started sewing and came across the sewing term “understitching”, I was totally confused and bewildered.  Even though I looked at the diagrams and read the explanations, the concept of understitching still eluded me.  Somewhere along the way, I finally discovered that understitching is actually quite easy and can be fun. 

The purpose of understitching is to keep the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment.  Because I sew a lot of girl’s dresses, I use this sewing technique a lot.

After the facings have been sewn on to the bodice and the seams trimmed, the next step is understitching. When you understitch, you will have the right side of the fabric facing you.  The seam allowance is turned toward the facing and you will be sewing very close to the stitch line, but remember that you will be sewing on the facing itself and not on the garment. 

Understitching on the straight area is quite easy, but the curved neckline seam is a little trickier because the seam has been clipped to the stitching.  Just remember to make sure the clipped seam is all turned toward the facing when you’re understitching.

In the picture above, the facing is to the right and the main body of the garment is to the left.  The seam allowance has been turned toward the facing .  I can feel it with my fingers. When I understitch a garment, I place the sewing machine needle to the left because it allows me to sew closer to the seam line.

When you understitch, you start sewing the straight part of the facing and sew until you get to about an inch before the corner (where the curved neckline begins) and then stop.  Cut the threads and then start understitching the curved neckline about an inch from the “corner”.  Make sure you place the seam allowance toward the facing.  When understitching around the curved neckline, take your time and sew slowly.  You may also have to keep the needle in the fabric , raise the presser foot and adjust the facing a bit while understitching in this area.  Sew until you get to an inch from the “corner”, cut the threads, and then starting about an inch down, understitch the other straight part of the facing/garment.  Turn the garment to the right side, use a point turner to create nice corners, and then press well. 

I like to press on the wrong side of the garment and also on the right side, and most of the time, I press the curved neckline area over a tailor’s ham. 

All of the above pictures were from previous sewing projects, when I actually had time to sew.   One of these days, maybe I’ll have a new project to show you.  In the meantime, I’ll keep talking about past projects. 

Sewing facings to a bodice: www.sewseamless.com/Page6.html and www.sewseamless.com/Page16.html

Understitching ( detailed instructions and pictures): www.sewseamless.com/Page7.html and www.sewseamless.com/Page16.html

Happy Sewing!

www.sewseamless.com