Sewing Room News: Fusible Interfacing
February 29, 2008 sewing Comments OffI’m happy to be back in the sewing room this week, but I’m a little frustrated that I haven’t made more progress. I guess real life continues to have other plans for me.
Since I am still trying to decide how to sew in the sleeves on this shirt, I decided to move on to the facings, and yesterday, I got the interfacing fused to the facing pieces. When Sandra Betzina’s (www.sandrabetzina.com) tv sewing show was still airing, she taught a method of applying fusible interfacing that works very well.
When applying fusible interfacing (www.sewseamless.com/Page4.html , www.sewseamless.com/Page15.html ), it is important to preshrink the interfacing itself. Some sewers do this by putting the interfacing in warm water and then hanging it over the shower to dry. Because I usually use small pieces, I use a different method, and this works for me. I cut out the interfacing pieces, spray the glue side with water, and then I hold the hot iron over the interfacing, glue side up. I make sure that the iron is not touching the interfacing, of course, and I hold the iron and slowly move it over the entire piece of interfacing, which is usually a small front facing or back facing piece. Sometimes I will give this a shot of steam, but I’ve been known to shrink the interfacing a little too much, so I have to be careful.
At this point, I lay the interfacing aside to let it dry completely. After the interfacing is completely dry, I then apply it to the fabric pieces. This is the fun part!
I like to iron my fabric facing pieces before I fuse the interfacing to them. I don’t know if that helps anything or not, but I like to do that. It is very important to make sure that you have the wrong side of the fabric up, and the interfacing glue side down. I’ve made the mistake of fusing the interfacing to the right side of the fabric before and it wasn’t pretty.
I have shown the interfacing and the piece it will be placed on in the picture on the left above. The picture on the right, although hard to see, is the facing piece with the interfacing placed on top of it, glue side down. When I’m applying fusible interfacing, I put a press cloth over the piece, lightly spray it with water, and then hold the iron (with lots of steam) down firmly for about ten seconds. Then I lift the iron up and slightly overlap where I just fused the interfacing, and hold the iron down firmly again. Always use a press and lift motion, instead of sliding the iron along, when applying fusible interfacing. I do this until I have interfaced the entire piece. Then I turn the facing piece over to the right side (fabric is right side up) and repeat the entire process. This ensures that the interfacing has fused with the fabric well. I usually leave the interfaced piece on the ironing board until it is cool before I move it.
Once the interfacing is applied, I then move on to sewing the facings and finishing the outside edges of the facings. More about that later.
There are several types of interfacing on the market, but my favorite is a knit or tricot type interfacing. I think there are several brand names for this type of interfacing, but the only one I can think of at the moment is Fusi-Knit, which I’ve used and I really like it. It was originally designed for use with knit fabrics, I think, but it works very well with cottons. I like it because it gives body and stability to the fabric without making the fabric feel too stiff or uncomfortable.
I got a little more done on the facings yesterday, but I’ll save that for another post. I think I may plan to sew today, and you know that usually means that absolutely no sewing gets done.
Happy Sewing!
